Did you do your kitchens and bathrooms same thickness as other rooms or thinner to save room?Yeah i agree putting radiators under windows seems daft. Good idea leaving slack on cables makes life easier when doing alterations. Thanks for the plug socket dummy tip great that 
I could move radiators to another wall myself and was thinking to get building control in and do it myself with guidance from my dad a retired joiner he cant do nothing physical wise now ill health or forget building control if its not necessary. EPC guy is ringing me tomorrow il ask him if i will get a C insulating all rooms apart from bathrooms and kitchens and do them later when refurbing. How much do you think it will cost ball park figure two up two down end terraced including bathroom and kitchen no radiators on exterior walls? Thanks for your help
Yes only one similar to mine but mine sounds better than theres everything is the same on there apart from programmer room thermostat Trv’s theres says good mine says very good but there score is 69 and mine is 64. My assessor said mine lost one point from old EPC because its got an electric shower but such a big difference in score though and both has gable ends no solar or wall insulation.
How long is a piece of string? Hard to say . On bigger rooms i use 80mm . Bathrooms and kitchens no less than 30 mm . On a tiled wall I leave out one tile with a hole big enough for a tape measure by the EPC girl .Then when done can fix the tile If rads are piped in with soft copper or plastic , they can usually be moved "forward " to insulate behind. Best always to use mechanical fixings . NOT screws and rawplugs
This property is an old victorian semi
How much cost depends on what you are doing
If you are removing all the skirting, rads, architrave, moving pipes for rads, and putting back and re decorating yourself afterwards it’s obviously a lot cheaper.
If you are insulating around bay windows it’s a lot more fiddly than a flat wall
If you are lifting and shortening floor boards so the insulation properly covers the gap between ceiling below and floor, then putting boards back, it takes time so £ to do
If there are any electric sockets or other things to go through the wall (phone line/broadband cable, etc) these take more time to avoid cold spotd
Etc
Bigger Size of walls means more materials and labour
Etc
.best
not an easy job if you are not a handy person
Yes i totally understand every job different theres more work than i thought as David said shortening floor boards floor and ceilings, cables, all kinds of snags and fiddly bits. I rang company today to enquire if they do it while tenanted but guy was off but guess they might not be interested if it’s tenanted but will find out but if they don’t come i guess it’s 7k-11k per house that’s what it says on the EPC certificates estimate costs. Bathrooms and kitchens no less than 30mm thats good to know save space and leave a tile out thanks again for advice.
this is a messy job to do in a tenanted property. I have also done under timber floors . never shortened the floor boards to get down by the joists tho. You cannot do that anyway if the joist runs parallel with the wall and is close to it. Remember that whatever you do, you have to PROVE it by the inspector seeing it and not by photos
you can also dry line, with taper edge plasterboard ,use filler, seal and paint , not skimming up. But I prefer to skim up
good to know thank you. Just a thought I have certain tenants who don’t ventilate properties never open the windows during winter so get condensation which Iv stopped after installing a PIV system on some. Do you think condensation will be a problem in these houses after insulating them l if they don’t open the windows with or without a PIV system?
to avoid the big c you need insulation and ventilation Avoid too much tiling in kitchen and bathroom . Always use wall fans . Tenant co operation is needed even when washing machine is on, the fan should be running , also when showering.
I read elsewhere that ventilation such as fans can also drop an EPC a point…
But totally right, Damp/condensation to be avoided be behaviour and correct balance of insulation plus ventilation
Best
I did not know that . But building inspectors require fan extractors in bathrooms and kitchens !! ironic or what?
So the insulation should help prevent condensation that’s good. I thought next time better to tile all walls because condensation doesn’t go on them as much I’m constantly cleaning HMO bathroom walls and have wall fan. Does the mould go behind the tile or only on the grout? Yes need balance it’s not hard to manage but sone tenants just don’t care about living with condensation they turn the fan off on isolating switch to save on electric and the same time save on heating don’t open bathroom or any windows I think they don’t want to feel the cold or spend on gas to reheat the rooms. A fan looses an EPC point that’s just crazy it feels like they are taking the mick.
I have a completely tiled bathroom at home with no fan (tiled so great that I did not alter it) so I use a dehumidifier , Works good no mould.. Grout seems to attract the mould
Use an isolation switch with a key they cant turn off easily
Eg
(And/Or put it in loft).
Best
Well ventilation stops mould but if you are replacing warm air with cold by ventilating it stands to reason more energy needed to keep a place warm so a worse epc, same as if you had single glazing not double glazing.
Equally mechanical heat recovery might improve epc
See eg The Role of Ventilation in Energy Efficiency and EPC Scores - The Certificate Lab
Best
That’s good managing it, tenants don’t like it when I bring dehumidifier round I think they turn it off after Iv gone. Key isolating switch that’s great I will get that next time. Once I had kitchen fan but no isolating switch the tenants disconnected the wires in the fan so I got isolating switch installed now I think they just leave it off pretty sure because every year I go there bleach, clean and re paint tell them give them condensation leaflet advice they nod there head even there bedroom wall mouldy they don’t care when I drive past i see there windows running water condensation windows closed but when I go round appointment they open them lol.
I been looking for none foil PIR plasterboard insulation online but seems to be all foil.
Where do you get it from if you don’t mind me asking?
i used to stock non foil, sold thousands of them, but stopped a year ago as foiled became more used in building work , so my warehouse space was better used, I was a sole supplier so i doubt you will find any. You can get paper finish but If moisture gets to it… I used the board separate from the insulation, not bonded together simply because it was a cheaper way of doing it and mechanically secured it