Better to insulate inside the external walls ,not the cavity and not the exterior. I have just insulated all the external walls of my daughters house ,then plasterboard and skim. Appreciate tho not all you guys can achieve this with a tenant in situ, but in between tenancies , it can be done.
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I’ve had that one as well on another property, couldn’t believe it 
. That one sold now . In fairness I had a new EPC done after a light refurbishment and the wind turbine didn’t re-appear. I’m sure the neighbours would have loved it though.
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For information purposes, Crazy Ed Millibands house is reported as being a D rating . Maybe he will put a turbine in his back yard.
So it would be fair to assume this would get a similar number of “points” awarded as cavity wall insulation on an EPC?
Better ,as it is inside the room. I have an old building in 3 flats all C epc .The one in the roof space has no recommendations, i asked why, she said “ you have done all you can. . 80mm PIR on the walls. plasterboard skim , skirtings. I first fixed electrics many years ago and left enough slack in the cables to re fix the sockets. If anyone says here,”the rooms are too small” or “ it costs more do do” Well then how else are you going to improve it?
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Not all properties with cavity walls are suitable for cavity wall insulation and the width of insulation is limited by the width of the cavity. Cavity wall insulation removed a gap where any water getting in (driving rain through the Mortar or at roof level) just falls to the bottom and instead gets wet, useless as insulation and then can cause damp.issues inside. So although widely used there are also horror stories (and with EWI - NAO reported 98% failure with recent govt EWI scheme due to poor installation - look it up). Whereas for internal or external wall insulation you can put whatever width you choose (internal will reduce floor space ever so slightly with say 150mm vs 100mm).
Other point is ensuring enough ventilation/extractor fans etc otherwise more insulation will just cause damp and mould inside…
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Other options I’ve seen on epcs
Solar panels on top of the roof either to provide water heating or electricity is another improvement
Also obviously thicker insulation when replacing a roof (has to meet modern building regs anyway but you can go beyond) or extra /renewed loft insulation (think this is supposed to be done every 30-50 y anyway). Think you can fit insulation between the roof timbers supporting the membrane/tiles and board over with insulated plasterboard
Don’t see any reason a heat pump couldn’t be fitted on a roof also
just another point I do not use a foiled pir as this can sweat I use non foil , In timber floors also .Never had any mould problems There are mushroom headed fixings to secure it to the brickwork
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We all need you to be our builder 
Always thicker in roof. An extension I am doing is 150mm between roof timbers and 50mm under , plasterboard and skim, roof timbers are 225mm as you need an airflow over the top. One thing I learnt early on is always do the best first time , then you will not be always going back to the job.
Solar panels all good >Now that is a cost, as needs scaffold. I toyed with the idea on my home, but decided to wear thermals instead ! Anther point about cavities You can full fill a cavity with “fluff” or use t and g PIR I just built a 120mm cavity with 90 mm t and g so left a 30mm gap so if any water gets thru the brickwork it will run down into the ground. Just have to be more carefull building. Just do NOT fill an existing cavity. How do you know it is being done the right way in any case?
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What’s the lifespan of solar panels…? Whoever builds them won’t build them to last.
I think solar panels are supposed to be 25-30 years (after which they still work but 85% of original output) but the ‘inverter’ is 10-15. Not sure about batteries (if have) will depend on use
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This is typical of the governments ill considered legislative policies.
Relying on poorly trained assessors of varying capabilities to condemn a property is ludicrous.
Let’s see how they get on with a massive reduction in rental property if this ever comes to pass.
They aint bothered in anything working as long as its there.
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In our city 17 years ago the local authority used external wall insulation on Victorian terraces with engineering brick
Then they took it all down because the house smelt of mould ( at the cost of the tax payer )
Old Victorian houses built of engineering brick should never have the brick covered
It needs to breath
Now everyone’s doing it again. Houses will smell of mould but they will be warmer….
Don’t they ever learn
A wise man once said
There are three types of people , the average, the intelligent and the idiot
The intelligent learn from someone else’s mistakes
The average learn from their own mistakes
The idiot doesn’t learn from his own mistakes …….
What does that say about local and central government?
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Does anyone have any info/opinions/general help about how privately owned flats will fare under the new legislation? I understand the need & reasons for homes to be more energy efficient but as an owner of a few flats I don’t own the roof, wall, windows etc so it’s not under my control to make changes to these. I’ve made the changes internally that I can but still not managed a C rating. I just can’t see how I can. I know there’s a spending cap but am I really looking at spending £10k in order to get an exemption? Other than boilers/heaters/light bulbs which are already up to standard what would I spend that amount of money on?
The EPC should say what needs to be done to bring it up to a C. Flats are generally easier as less external walls/floor/ceiling but you do get some recommendations which arent possible due to leasehold system…
The way EPCs are calculated will change later in 2026 so probably best to wait for that change, get a new EPC and take it from there.
You don t spend 10k to get exemption. You spend what said needed to improve on epc. If that is under 10k and you can’t get to epc c that’s it. If the measures needed to get to a c would cost over 10k again you don’t need to do and can get exemption
Check assumption in current epc unless you’ve given evidence of insulation added they likely have assumed none
Thicker or higher performing internal wall insulation?
Ceiling or floor insulation
Draught proofing
Smart controls for heating and trvs ?
Secondary glazing?
Replace with better windows (just get freeholder permission).
If balcony or somethingto support it, a heat pump (again permission from freeholder as will need hole in wall)
(In future) Electric combi boilers using a green tariff ?Electric storage heating on a dual rate tariff?
We don’t know what exactly the 2nd part of the new standard will be. 1st will be fabric part of current epc
You could get a PAS 2035 assessment which is costlier and more detailed than an EPC or get a new EPC and specifically ask for options to get to a C.
Good luck